For the first part of the drive we took a detour through our driver's village:
After Pangong Tso we were exhausted and freezing and passed out once we got to the army guesthouse in Tangtse that we were staying at. I woke up when I heard an intense discussion outside the room about environmental politics. I went out, keen to join in, and found my dad talking to this young general who looked like my dad's successor in Jo'burg. Quite frankly I had no idea what they were on about so I just sat and listened, waiting for the intensity to subside. We later found out from him that not only were we in snow leopard country (!!!) but that there was a place about an hour away where there are saras cranes. Unfortunately but not surprisingly, we saw neither =/
The next morning we went back through Chang La and took a new route back to Leh.